The direct comparison method works well from life in studio conditions and outdoors on a softly overcast day.
That is, when the tonal range of the subject is comparable to the range of our paints.
Working from life using direct comparisons is easiest to learn in the studio, under stable lighting. Here, a fixed lighting setup is usually sufficient and can be maintained throughout the session.
The next step is working outdoors. Because of the significantly greater tonal range, it becomes necessary to master dynamic lighting adjustment, adapting the illumination of the paint sample to different areas of the subject.
Sunny plein-air work is better left until later: enormous contrasts, changing light, and the difficulty of judging the painting itself make direct comparison considerably more difficult, especially for a beginner.
At the beginning of the session, while the lighting is stable, it is advisable to establish the main tonal relationships and several basic colors accurately, laying down the color framework of the painting.
These color areas should then be seen together, refined, and harmonized with one another. After that, the painting can be developed within the established relationships, without constant direct comparisons.
When working in bright plein-air light, it is useful to keep in mind from the outset how the study will look at home, where the light is much weaker. This applies above all to the shadows.
It is useful to make the shadows in the study lighter and at the same time give them more color. Outdoors, shadows may appear fairly light and saturated, but under the weaker lighting of the studio these same colors will become significantly darker and more muted. Therefore, literally copying the shadows often results in gray, heavy areas in the study in which the color is lost. On plein air, it is better to make the shadows noticeably lighter and more colorful from the start than they appear in the subject.
Midtones are usually rendered most naturally. Both hue and saturation are clearly visible in them, so in realistic painting they can most often be taken close to the subject in saturation, unless there is a specific reason to intensify the color.
The lightest areas can be painted as they are, but it is important not to reduce them to whitish mixtures and, whenever possible, to preserve and even slightly emphasize their hue.
In sunny weather, all of this becomes especially important. The stronger the contrast in the subject, the more carefully the artist has to watch the shadows above all, preventing them from losing color and sinking into blackness.
And this is not a peculiarity of the direct comparison method, but a general problem of plein-air painting: what looks bright and convincing in strong outdoor light may appear too dark and muted indoors.
The possible ways of working from life are too varied to discuss them in detail here.
These scenarios are examined in my videos and in a separate article, where the direct comparison method is demonstrated in practice using the
Chromastick, a special tool designed for working with this method.